Drip Irrigation & Drip Conversions
Drip Irrigation & Drip Conversions in Palm Bay, FL
Water at the roots, not on the walls.
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Drip irrigation delivers water slowly through small tubing and emitters placed at each plant's roots. An emitter is a small fitting that lets out a measured trickle of water. Because the water goes into the soil instead of through the air, very little is lost to wind, evaporation or overspray onto walls and windows.
We repair existing drip zones and convert spray-head beds to drip. A conversion usually keeps the same valve and wiring. We add a filter and a pressure regulator at the start of the zone, then run tubing to the plants that actually need water, so the zone waters the bed instead of the house.
Signs you need drip irrigation & drip conversions
- Shrubs or palms that look dry while the lawn looks fine
- Spray heads soaking walls, windows or screens in a bed
- Drip tubing that has been cut, chewed or pulled loose
- Emitters that are clogged or missing
- Mulch washed away or soil eroding around plants
- Rust or crusty deposits on tubing from well water
What we do
A drip zone is only as good as its filter, pressure and emitter layout, so we check all three.
- 1
Map the plants
We look at what is in the bed, how much sun it gets and how each plant is watered now.
- 2
Set up the zone head
We fit a filter and a pressure regulator at the valve. Drip runs at lower pressure than spray heads and needs clean water to keep emitters open.
- 3
Lay tubing and emitters
We run tubing through the bed, place emitters at the roots, and secure it under the mulch so it stays put.
- 4
Flush, test and set the schedule
We flush the lines, check that every emitter flows, and set a run time that suits slow, deep watering.
A conversion is usually priced by the size of the bed and the number of plants. Repairs to an existing drip zone are often quick: a few new fittings, a cleaned filter and some replaced emitters. If only part of a bed needs drip, we can convert just that section and leave lawn heads on the rest of the zone capped or rerouted, so you aren't paying to redo plantings that are doing fine.
Local conditions
Drip for Space Coast beds and palms
Space Coast landscapes lean on palms, hedges and mixed beds alongside the St. Augustine or Bahia lawn. Those plants have very different needs than turf, yet many older systems water them with the same spray heads. The result is wet stucco, a ring of rust on the wall at well-water homes, and shrubs that get less water than the grass in front of them. Drip puts a measured amount at each root zone and leaves the walls dry.
Sandy soil changes how drip should be laid out. Water moves straight down in sand rather than spreading sideways, so emitters need to sit closer to the roots and close together than they would in heavy soil. Well water brings its own issue: iron and sediment clog emitters, so a good filter at the start of the zone and a periodic flush matter more here than in many places.
Before you call: quick checks
Drip problems are often easy to spot once you know where to look. Run the drip zone for a few minutes and walk the bed. Look for wet spots that are too big, which usually mean a loose fitting or a broken line, and plants with dry soil around them, which point to a clogged or missing emitter. Check the filter at the start of the zone too, because a clogged screen starves the whole zone.
Landscaping work is the most common cause of drip damage. Edging, planting and digging new beds can cut or pull tubing loose without anyone noticing. If your bed has been worked on recently, start your search there.
Converting to drip also helps you stay within the watering rules. A drip zone still waters only on your allowed days, but almost all of the water it uses reaches the roots, so the plants hold up better between watering days.
- Run the drip zone and walk the bed while it runs
- Look for puddles, spurting fittings and dry plants
- Check and rinse the filter screen at the zone's start
- Think back to any recent digging or planting in the bed
Tell us what your system is doing
Call, text a photo or send the form below for a free estimate.
Drip Irrigation & Drip Conversions: common questions
Can I convert my spray beds to drip?
In most cases, yes. We keep the existing valve and wiring and convert the zone with a filter, a pressure regulator and new tubing.
Does drip work with well water?
Yes, with a good filter at the start of the zone and an occasional flush. Iron and sand are the usual causes of clogged emitters.
How long should a drip zone run?
Longer than a spray zone, because drip is slow. The right time depends on your plants and emitters, and we set it during the visit within the district's one-hour-per-zone limit.
Why are my drip emitters clogged?
The usual causes are sediment, iron deposits or a missing filter. We clean or replace the emitters and fix the filter so it doesn't happen again soon.
Is drip good for palms?
Yes. Several emitters spaced around the root zone water a palm more evenly than one spray head aimed at the trunk.
Related services
Sprinkler Head & Coverage Repair
Broken, buried or misaimed heads, dry patches and layouts that never covered the yard.
Well & Pump System Repair
Pumps that won't start or prime, failed relays, short cycling and rust stains from iron.
Seasonal Tune-Ups & Inspections
Every zone tested, heads aimed, the rain sensor checked and the timer set for the season.
Free estimates
Request a free estimate
Tell us what your system is doing and we'll call you back to talk it through and set a time to look. Prefer to talk now?
(772) 310-4074Or send us a text with a photo of the problem.